13 Nov 2024 Supermarkets cash in on ‘fake’ sourdough breads
Bread, a staple in many households, has become a battleground for authenticity, particularly with the rise of sourdough….
Once regarded as the oldest form of leavened bread, sourdough has enjoyed a resurgence thanks to pandemic hobbyists, the promise of health benefits, and artisanal bakers striving for the perfect crumb and tangy flavour.
However, as its popularity grows, so too does the presence of what some are calling “sourfaux” — bread labelled as sourdough but not made using traditional methods.
While sourdough still doesn’t match the billions of standard white loaves purchased annually in South Africa, it has made notable inroads onto supermarket shelves. Retailers, always eager to capitalise on food trends, have been quick to slap the “sourdough” label on breads that come with steep price tags to match, according to a report in BusinessLive.co.za.
A loaf of sourdough in leading SA supermarkets can cost anywhere from 1.5 to 7 times more than the typical white or brown loaf. Some supermarkets charge up to R80 for a 440g pre-packaged loaf of sourdough, which works out to about R18 per 100g — an increase of over 600% compared to a standard loaf of bread.
Independent bakeries, in contrast, often sell true sourdough for around R70, but these loaves tend to be much larger and made with traditional methods.
While the premium price for real sourdough is understandable due to the time and expertise involved in its creation, the issue arises when products that don’t meet the traditional definition are marketed as sourdough. This is where organizations like the UK’s Real Bread Campaign, along with specialist bakers, are pushing back.
Much like the debate over what constitutes real ice cream versus frozen dessert, or traditional boerewors versus braaiwors, there is a clear distinction between authentic sourdough and the supermarket variety, which often contains a list of additional ingredients.
Most supermarket “sourdoughs” include more than 20 ingredients, with many adding baker’s yeast — a key ingredient that sets it apart from the naturally fermented variety.
Since 2014, European bakery organisation, Fedima, has insisted that only breads made through traditional fermentation methods — without the use of artificial acids or bases — can be legally labelled as sourdough.
The controversy reached a peak recently when Lidl in the UK was forced to rebrand its “sourdough” bread after it was found to contain baker’s yeast. The bread was renamed “Crusty Wheat and Rye Bloomer” following public backlash from the Real Bread Campaign.
Locally, David Donde, the founder of Cape Town’s Truth Coffee and the Flour Market bakery, has expressed frustration over the trend. He points out that true sourdough requires only four ingredients: flour, water, salt and time.
“Some of the supermarket offerings might resemble sourdough, but they aren’t the real deal. Supermarkets are attaching a premium to the term ‘sourdough’ without delivering on its true characteristics.” David Donde
Lance Littlefield, the owner of Motherdough bakery in Franschhoek, echoes this sentiment and encourages consumers to read labels carefully. “What supermarkets are selling is sourdough in name only,” he says.
“Authentic sourdough is made with a live starter, involves long fermentation, and contains no added yeast or chemical additives. Anything else compromises the entire process, which means it’s no longer truly sourdough.”
When approached for comment, a Woolworths spokesperson defended its sourdough offerings, stating that the 400g crushed wheat sourdough, priced at R49.99, is made “in line with traditional methods.” However, they did confirm that a small amount of yeast is added to help with the bread’s proving process. The spokesperson emphasised that yeast is used sparingly and only as an aid to the sourdough starter.
Similarly, Checkers, which introduced sourdough bread in select stores in 2020, said the move was in response to a growing global trend toward healthier, artisanal food choices.
However, Littlefield believes the issue could be addressed through clearer bread labelling regulations. “Supermarkets should not be allowed to call their products ‘sourdough’ if they don’t meet the traditional fermentation criteria,” he says. “The term implies a completely natural, time-honoured process, which simply isn’t the case with these modified versions.”
Source: BusinessLive.co.za