Carst and Walker
Insect restaurant

Paying a visit to Britain’s first insect-only restaurant

It is usually frowned upon for a restaurant to welcome the company of cockroaches, let alone a family of large Madagascan ones. But one kitchen in rural Pembrokeshire has won a social entrepreneur award for doing just that, before it even opened.

Grub Kitchen, a partner business to the Bug Farm at Lower Harglodd, near St David’s, opened two weeks ago and is already taking Christmas bookings. All its food is primarily made from insects. The Independent reported on the opening last month, so it seemed only right to go along and sample the food.

Visitors are taken on a guided tour of the “bug zoo”, where tarantulas, millipedes and Rampant Robert the Rainbow Stag Beetle live.

I am led from the tropical haven to the kitchen to eat some of Robert’s less fortunate relatives. Grub Kitchen itself is a bright and homely café-restaurant which has been transformed from an old tin-roofed farm shed. Tables are made from disused railway sleepers and a bar from floorboards, so it is decidedly sustainable-chic.

With separate daytime and evening menus, guests can enjoy starters ranging from toasted cumin mealworm hummus and breads to zesty black ant and olive-crusted goat cheese

Grasshoppers and crickets have always been a popular dish in South America and some African countries and it seems the British have been missing a trick. Slightly crunchy they are, like everything else exoskeletal, and slightly nutty in taste. Yet somehow it feels as natural as munching on Bombay Mix. 

For my main meal, chef Andy Holcroft joined me for his personal recommendation: a cricket, locust, mealworm and grasshopper burger with polenta chips, side salad and grasshopper garnish……

The Independent: Read the full article

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