19 Nov 2025 A brief history of fat fads

Few ingredients have been as controversial, celebrated and demonized as fat. Over the past century, the food industry has witnessed dramatic swings in consumer attitudes toward fats — each shift driven by science, marketing, and cultural anxieties.…

From the rise of margarine to the recent renaissance of beef tallow, the story of fat is not just about nutrition but about how industry innovation and consumer perception collide.

The early days: Margarine vs butter

In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, butter reigned supreme. But industrial innovation introduced margarine, initially made from animal fats and later vegetable oils. Margarine was marketed as a cheaper, modern alternative to butter, appealing to urban households and wartime economies.

Yet margarine’s rise was anything but smooth. Dairy lobbyists fought hard against it, leading to bizarre regulations such as laws requiring margarine to be sold uncoloured (forcing consumers to mix in yellow dye themselves). Despite resistance, margarine carved out a place in American kitchens, symbolising both affordability and industrial progress.

The mid-century shift: Vegetable oils and “Heart Health”

By the 1950s and 1960s, scientific research began linking saturated fats to heart disease. This ushered in a new era where vegetable oils — corn, soybean, and canola — were promoted as healthier alternatives. Food companies reformulated products to highlight “polyunsaturated” oils, while margarine was rebranded as a heart-friendly choice.

This period also saw the demonization of animal fats. Lard, once a staple in American cooking, was pushed aside. Beef tallow, used for frying everything from French fries to doughnuts, was replaced by vegetable shortening. The food industry leaned heavily into the narrative that plant-based oils were modern, scientific and safe.

The low-fat craze of the 1980s and 1990s

If the mid-century was about replacing saturated fats, the late 20th century was about eliminating fat altogether. The rise of the low-fat diet was fueled by government guidelines, media campaigns, and a booming diet industry.

Food manufacturers responded with an avalanche of “fat-free” products — cookies, yogurts, salad dressings — often loaded with sugar to compensate for taste.

But the craze had unintended consequences. As consumers cut fat, they increased carbohydrate and sugar intake, contributing to rising obesity and diabetes rates. The industry learned a hard lesson: removing fat did not necessarily make food healthier.

The backlash: Rediscovering “good fats”

By the early 2000s, nutrition science began to challenge the low-fat orthodoxy. Studies showed that not all fats were equal. Monounsaturated fats (like olive oil) and omega-3s (from fish and flaxseed) were linked to improved heart health. The Mediterranean diet gained popularity, shifting the narrative from “avoid fat” to “choose the right fat”.

Food companies pivoted quickly. Olive oil became a premium product, avocado toast a cultural phenomenon, and nut butters a staple of wellness marketing. “Good fats” were suddenly aspirational, associated with longevity, brain health, and culinary sophistication.

The trans fat reckoning

One of the most significant regulatory interventions came in the 2000s with the crackdown on trans fats. Once hailed as a miracle of food science, partially hydrogenated oils were found to increase the risk of heart disease.

In 2015, the FDA ruled that trans fats were no longer “generally recognised as safe” or GRAS, forcing reformulation across the industry. Fast-food chains, snack manufacturers, and bakeries scrambled to replace trans fats with alternatives. This moment underscored how quickly industry practices can shift when science and regulation converge.

The return of animal fats: Beef tallow and nostalgia

In recent years, a surprising trend has emerged: the revival of traditional animal fats. Beef tallow, once abandoned in favour of vegetable oils, is making a comeback. Artisanal brands and chefs tout its flavour, stability in frying, and “heritage” appeal.

This resurgence is partly cultural. Consumers, weary of decades of shifting dietary advice, are embracing nostalgia and authenticity. The rise of keto and carnivore diets has also fueled demand for animal fats, reframing them as natural and satiating rather than dangerous.

For the food industry, this represents both opportunity and challenge. On one hand, beef tallow aligns with trends toward “real food” and culinary craft. On the other, sustainability concerns and plant-based movements complicate its positioning.

Lessons for the food industry

The history of fat fads offers several insights for today’s food businesses:

• Consumer trust is fragile: Decades of conflicting advice have left many skeptical of nutrition claims. Transparency and authenticity matter more than ever.
• Science drives regulation — and reformulation: From trans fats to saturated fat debates, industry practices must adapt quickly to evolving evidence.
• Cultural narratives shape demand: Whether it’s the Mediterranean diet or keto, food trends are as much about identity and lifestyle as health.
• Innovation must balance health and flavour: Fat is central to taste and texture. Successful products find ways to deliver indulgence without compromising wellness.

Fat as a mirror of food culture

The story of fat in America is not linear — it’s cyclical, swinging between fear and embrace, science and nostalgia. For the food industry, fats are more than ingredients; they are cultural symbols, regulatory battlegrounds, and marketing opportunities.

As beef tallow returns to menus and olive oil remains a pantry staple, one thing is clear: fat will continue to be at the centre of an evolving global food story. The challenge for industry leaders is not just to follow the fad but to anticipate the next chapter — where health, sustainability, and flavour intersect.

Source: A synopsis of an article from FoodandWine.com: read this excellent essay here